Detector Dogs

Toy Reward Versus Food Reward

Tuesday, January 4th, 2011

The issue regarding toy reward versus food reward is jostled about from time to time, and I find it rather perplexing to think that one method is so much better than the other. 

Having been involved with the training of hundreds of bomb and drug dogs earlier in my career the only method I was familiar with was toy reward training for detector dogs.  However, once I became increasingly more involved with working with the smaller breeds it was apparent that a lot of great dogs would never have the opportunity to do scent detection work due to their lack of “Toy Drive”, but still loved to hunt and apply their nose accordingly.  Many of these dogs did not have any interest whatsoever with toys, but would do anything for food.  This is where all the “Toy Reward” people of the world must understand that by insisting on toy reward dogs they are eliminating a lot of super dogs.

My preference would be toy reward dogs in a perfect world, but the fact of the matter is a lot of dogs, even with toy drive, are not as consistent throughout a busy day for a toy as they are for food.  Many do not realize that most police detector dogs are in a patrol car most of the night and may get used here and there for a search.  This is where a toy works very well.  A bedbug detector dog may be asked to sweep an entire hotel in a single day.  This is where proper motivation becomes vital.  Some toy reward dogs become disinterested after a lot of work.

There are many skeptics who claim food reward dogs are the cause for many “false positive” alerts.  The fact of the matter is that with proper training and handling a food reward dog is just as reliable as any toy reward dog, maybe more.  You have to continually proof off of tennis balls, rubber and food the same with a toy reward dog as you do a food reward dog.  The argument is preposterous. 

I would agree wholeheartedly with the toy reward advocates in the event somebody was starving their dog to work harder, but that simply is not the case with most.  A dog with excellent food drive can work all day even after being fed and still wants to work more because of their love of food.  They are fed the same as any other dog it’s just that they will do anything for food the same as a dog that does tricks or obedience for food.  It is totally motivational and that is the name of the game. 
There is a reason the ATF, Customs, and the USDA use food reward dogs almost exclusively.

Without proper motivation a working dog simply will not work at all or as consistent as it should.  I have seen toy reward dogs that simply did not work as well for the toy as they did for food and switched them to food to find them to work very well.  I have also seen toy reward dogs work exceptionally well.  Dogs have varying degrees of genetically acquired subconscious compulsions and characteristic traits that may be perfect for a particular task, but finding the motivation that makes them perform better can be drastically different from dog to dog.

Bomb Detector Dog Training

Friday, October 9th, 2009

malinois_scent_boxBUILDING FLUSHING BEHAVIOR
Play Drive vs. Prey Drive

Over the years it has become painfully obvious that many detector dog handlers have lost sight of the fact that their dog is bored with training or simply is not as focused as they should be. I’ve noticed that in a “prey monster deluxe” seldom do issues arise, however there are dogs that do not have as much drive and require careful handling and training to stay on top of the game of scent detection. There have been cases where even a “prey monster deluxe” has encountered problems due to poor training and handling. The problem arises when handlers begin training like “everybody else” and do not make the necessary adjustments to fix the problem. Dog training is all about making the necessary adjustments. This separates a good handler or trainer from a bad one. In almost every case, the success or failures of a canine team stem from the initial training, but there are many variables that affect the success of a K9 program. The initial training is the foundation for everything else to build on.

When we look at the qualities of a good detector dog, we look at the following:
1. High energy level
2. High prey drive
3. Strong hunt drive
4. Extremely focused!

When I look at essential elements of a detector dog team I look for:
1. Focus
2. Correctness
3. Confidence

More often than not, these are qualities and elements that comprise a good handler as well. Detection work truly is a team effort. The primary purpose of this training message is to discuss methods that have been very instrumental in building focus and very successful canine teams through the years. I do not believe a handler will ever trust their dog unless the dog conveys to the handler that they are focused, correct, and confident in their mission.

For a long time I knew that primary rewards were the way to go in terms of building independence from the handler and building more intensity. Primary rewards are not always practical so most handlers deliver the prey object (their toy) directly from their hand which is known as a secondary reward. Through years of observing lazy searches, missed hides, and poor alerts, it dawned on me that a lot of these dogs are bored and needed a fire lit under them to motivate them to perform better. It appeared that even though the prey object was delivered by their handler, they were not deriving the same satisfaction as a dog who encountered a rabbit in a field. The dog encountering the rabbit was having fun and true prey drive was exhibited.

We all have been told the prey object is the rabbit. I have found this is not always the case and have sought methods to better extract true prey drive in the detection dog. There are dogs who only like tennis balls, some who only like Kongs, tugtoys, or PVC pipe. There is no doubt another level exists which is between a rabbit and a prey object. It may be a form of play drive which is not anywhere near as intense as prey drive. I do not profess to be an expert in dog drives, but I believe there is some merit to this. When I watch handlers delivering their ball from their pocket, usually in plain view of the dog, I see a dog who is basically playing fetch with their handler. They can become bored with this and this is where most of the problems arise. The intensity of chasing a rabbit is not there and to prove this I’d like you to play fetch with your dog in a field and see whether your dog would rather flush and chase a rabbit than catch your ball. Maybe through obedience training you have your dog disciplined enough to resist the rabbit, but I would bet the dog’s ears are perked and the dog would much rather chase the rabbit. This all sounds very simple minded, but so many handlers take it for granted. I’m not saying we need to train with rabbits, but I am saying we need to make the prey object come alive and as independent of the handler as possible. The handler in most cases should be completely out of the picture and behind the dog when the time comes to deliver the prey object.

Flushing Behavior Definition: The extremely focused, obsessive state of an animal to cause or wait for smaller prey to rush out of hiding and escape.

There are certain elements that build the flushing behavior similar to that of the flushing of the rabbit when performing detection work. These elements are the following:

1. Proper odor recognition and alert
2. Suspense that prey object is jumping from source
3. Appearance that the prey object came from source
4. Independence of the handler

Primary rewards coupled with remote sound boxes or delivery systems have been very instrumental in building focus and flushing behavior. The timing of these devices is vital to the success of the exercise. There are very expensive remote controlled devices used to shape the behavior of the dog, but sometimes a little creativity is all that is needed. Gravity fed devices, string activated mechanisms, and careful 3rd party delivery can be used. At the very least, a handler can deliver the prey object by sleight of hand as long as the final response is maintained and the object is delivered from the source. Never allow the dog to break its final response and walk to the handler to receive the prey object! This is sloppy and causes serious problems!

Not only are we wanting to create strong flushing behavior, but we are also wanting to create enough confidence in the dog to perform their task without being dependant of the handler in any way. Too many handlers cue their dogs by doing something the dog recognizes and triggers a certain response. It could be enticing chatter, stopping our feet and lingering in an area, or moving too slow or too fast.

Dog training is not always easy and there are so many things to be mindful of. A good handler should always strive to make the necessary adjustments, have an open mind and broaden their base of knowledge, and always be pushing the envelope and make training more and more challenging and intense.